Cosmetics Research

I am addicted to glossy magazines. Marie-Claire, Cosmopolitan, Jackie, Glamour, Conde Nast and Linda; I read all of them. But I usually flick quickly through the cosmetics advertisements… That is because I know, from experience, that they can completely change my happy mood in no time. Your wrinkles will disappear in 4 days, lifting effect, total transformation, anti-cellulite, clinical proof, patents, years of research, revolutionary ingredients, dermatologically tested; It makes me miserable…. And I think a lot of others too. Most ‘cosmetics research’ these brands have done is very meagre.

Scientifically proven?
All that nonsense makes it difficult for us to separate the truth from the semi-truth ( or even the lies). The result; an empty pig bank, broken dreams and a skin that has seen better days! It makes me grind my teeth when I see that a cosmetics company makes out that the results of the cosmetics research into the effects of the product are actually “scientific”. For I have, in the meantime, found out that this is hardly ever the case. A short explanation….

Scientific results from Pubmed
Researchers certainly explain the results of their work in scientific articles. Such an article is intended for the use of informing other researchers of scientific results and to claim these results as the latest opinion gained by the researcher involved. The results of an investigation are generally recognised as being worthy by other researchers if the article is published in a so called ‘peer- reviewed’ magazine. A ‘peer-reviewed’ scientific article is an article which is assessed by peers. This assessment determines whether the article meets certain quality requirements. All of the scientific journals work with a similar system in order to ensure the quality of articles appearing in that journal. You can find all such “peer reviewed” research in a data base called Pubmed www.pubmed.com. The summaries of the investigations found on Pubmed are, however, difficult for the layman to understand. Furthermore, it is not normally possible to see the whole article.

So it is time to change things here and I have already made a start. I have recently set up a foundation concerned with cosmetics research. What has actually been proven and what are myths? What works and what doesn’t? What the situation is with cosmetics research into new developments in the area of skin problems such as acne, Rosacea, pigmentation and of course skin ageing? On the website of this foundation I, myself, together with Dermatological Specialists and other experts will review, in more recognisable terms, the most recently published genuine research. Besides this you can also find more on the website about investigations that I am currently undertaking.

Anti-oxidants
One of the investigations which will definitely be discussed here is a very recently ( 5 days ago) published review article about the benefits of applying cream containing anti-oxidants. The article is published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. The conclusion of the story is briefly summarized. Smearing anti-oxidants into your skin to protect against sun damage is much needed. If you don’t do this then the free radicals can damage the elastin, collagen and DNA in the skin. According to Plastic Surgeon Haywood from the Mount Vernon Hospital in Middlesex (I’ve also done placement training here…) broad spectrum sun filters are only able to remove 55% of the free radicals formed. Free radicals are primarily formed through UVA rays. UVA also penetrates through clouds and glass. The investigations carried out by Wu and Matsui have also demonstrated that combining sun filters with anti-oxidants is very beneficial. Their research revealed that by adding Vitamin C, Vitamin E and caffeine, the skin is protected considerably more than if a sun protection filter is used on its own. Apart from Vitamin C, Vitamin E and caffeine, substances with known protecting properties are Carotenoids, Ubiquinone, Genistein, Silymarin, Selenium, Vitamin A (Acid), Green Tea, Resveratrol and Pycnogenol.

The efficacy of anti-oxidants in a cream…
According to the writer though there is still one small problem. It is not easy getting anti-oxidants to work properly in cosmetic products. The active concentrations need to be high enough, anti-oxidants are very unstable and therefore need to be packaged in light and air tight containers and there should preferably be a combination of several anti-oxidants in one product. There is still more, anti-oxidants are not so useful in sun cream products since most filters make it harder for anti-oxidants to penetrate through the layer of dead skin cells. That is, again then, one of the reasons why I am in favour of using a separate sun cream product in combination with a moisturiser with anti-oxidants (and other useful substances for the skin).
All in all then, there is still much (research) work required to ensure that those pots on the shelves actually do what they promise. Lots to do still then; those magazines will just have to wait a moment….

Regards Jetske.
(Dr. Jetske Ultee-Research Physician Cosmetic Dermatology)

You can also read the blogs:
‘Anti-Oxidants in Cosmetic Products’,
‘Product Advice’,
‘A Healthy Skin’ ,
and ‘Getting Older’.