The Big Mascara Test
Numbers tell the truth – test of Mascara
A couple of weeks ago I was asked by VARA Kassa if I could help them out with reviewing a range of mascaras. It involved the Dutch rugby ladies team testing them out whilst in action and I had to look at the products effectiveness (how they enhanced the eyelashes in length and thickness) and ingredients. At first I thought, this is going to be a piece of cake, however, there were a few obstacles to overcome.
On VARA’s ‘Kassa’ Program…See the mascara test clip here
First of all, tracking down the ingredients lists, for the mascaras being tested, was a very tricky job. Strange, as I thought that cosmetics manufacturers had an obligation…
As well as this, analysing the increase in size of the eyelash proved more difficult than anticipated. Having a laboratory filled with high-tec skin analysing equipment, for in depth research into the most unusual skin cases, was not so useful when it came to measuring the length and thickness of eyelashes.
My first idea, which was to select wrinkles in order to automatically work out the surface area of the eyelashes, didn’t produce the correct results. The ‘crow’s feet’ were measured along with the eyelash hairs, resulting in the person with the most wrinkles seeming to have the best mascara. Just at the moment when I was, to the horror of the test patients, contemplating the removal of each eyelash so that I could measure them, our graphic designer (clearly the smartest person in our team) came up with the solution. Our photographic equipment can take highly detailed photographs of the eyes, so by superimposing the eyelash hairs without mascara onto the eyelashes with mascara we are able to easily assess the effect. Click here for the result…
Test: the more expensive the better?
And it turned out, with the exception of one (the mascara from the Hema; hardly any volume, poor quality brush and Propylene Glycol was high up in the ingredients list), the variation in the results between the different mascaras was minimal. Even though the most expensive one costs at least 20 times more than the cheapest. This finding was confirmed with the ingredients list; there was hardly any variation in the composition of the different mascaras, and the ingredients used could, in no way, explain the huge price difference between the products. Indeed, it was clear to see that the mascara by L’Oreal and Lancome came from the same manufacturer, also the mascaras by Rimmel and Miss Sporty, Bourjois and Chanel, had a very similar DNA profile.
Of course the evaluation of mascaras is, not only about the length and volume but, also about its ease of use, or if the brush is good, or if it stays on after you wipe away a tear and then, if at the end of a long day, it is easy to remove. I am very interested in the remarks from the rugby Ladies! But one thing I do know: from now on, before I buy an expensive mascara, I will first hunt down its cheaper twin sister…
Regards Jetske
Research Physician Cosmetic Dermatology
You can read more about mascaras in these blogs:
‘Help with Choosing Your Mascara‘
‘The Finest Mascara‘