Does Sun Cream Give You Spots?
I am often asked: can sun cream give you spots? And does the sun help or not with acne? Complaints seem to be less frequent in the summer. Why is that exactly?
Sunlight can have both a positive and a negative effect on acne. And that can vary from person to person. Certain wavelengths of sunlight are effective in killing the P. acnes bacteria which plays an important part in inflammation of the skin. Sunlight also suppresses the immune system. This can also cause a slight improvement in the skins appearance; the inflammation process becomes less severe. And finally, a tan, naturally camouflages many imperfections, such as redness caused by spots.
Disadvantages outweigh advantages of the sun
Nevertheless exposure to the sun is outweighed by the disadvantages. Ultra violet rays damage the DNA of the skin cells, is responsible for wrinkles and age spots and, ultimately, can cause skin cancer. But in addition to this, the tanning of the skin (which is actually a protective reaction) causes thickening of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin). This extra stress on the skin cells causes blockages in the follicles resulting in spots. There is also evidence that sunlight stimulates the production of sebum.
In fact it is not so strange that most advice about acne problems is sought in October. People have spent a lot of time in the sun during the summer and a few weeks later the acne returns.
Sun cream and spots
It is important that everyone applies sun cream regularly, but even more so if you have acne. This is because most acne treatments make the skin extra sensitive to sunlight. By this I mean antibiotics, retinoids and benzoyl peroxide. So apply thoroughly. But which sun creams are the best choice? Don’t they just give you more spots?
Different theories
Theories differ as to whether spots are caused by sun cream. The well-known American Dermatologist, Dr. Leslie Baumann, claims that spots can arise, in particular, because of chemical sun filters. These filters protect your skin by absorbing sunlight. This makes thermal energy in the skin. In the case of (acne) sensitive skin this heat can cause spots to appear 24-48 hours later. That would explain why physical filters usually perform better: these filters work by reflecting sunlight. Incidentally, modern sun filters, such as tinosorb, do both: absorb and reflect.
Follicle irritation
Another theory, according to Cosmetic Dermatologist, Zoe Draelos, is that sun filters, together with the ingredients used in combination with these sun filters, cut off and irritate the hair follicles, causing spots. If you see spots appearing between 24-48 hours after applying sun cream it is not a question of acne, more of follicle irritation. The spots are smaller, red and sometimes have a yellow or white head.
Blocked pores
If spots appear after a longer period of time and they are also deeper in the skin (often in combination with blackheads), then the probable cause is the sun filters or other substances in the cream which block the pores. Sebum and dead skin build up and bacteria in the blocked pore can then cause inflammation. Many sun filters, as well as the substances used in combination with sun filters, are very obstructive and, after a while, this can cause problems.
Yeast spots
Alongside this, I also often see an outbreak of Pityrosporum folliculitis or yeast spots in the summer. The combination of heat and obstructive creams causes a rapid growth of the yeast, which in turn results in lots of small, sometimes itchy, bumps. This can often be easily treated with an anti-fungal medication.
Tips for ‘summer spots’
To cut a long story short; the exact cause of your ‘summer spots’ is difficult to establish. It is usually a combination of different factors.
My tips:
– Make sure you buy a product containing safe filters, causing as little irritation as possible to the skin.
– Also check the other ingredients in sun creams. A list of substances can be found in my Skin Book which are best avoided if you have acne sensitive skin. You will often come across coconut and grapeseed oil, for instance, but these ingredients are best avoided if you suffer from spots. Also avoid products with a high alcohol concentration.
– The oilier and thicker the sun cream the greater the risk of problems. Apply a lighter product with a lower filter more frequently than a heavier one with a high SPF. The so-called ‘waterproof’ and ‘all-day’ products also cause more problems.
– Test a new sun cream for a few days by applying a small amount onto the skin just in front of your ear.
– Lastly, if you apply sun cream on your face don’t forget to cleanse it off each evening using a very mild cleanser.
Regards,
Jetske
Research Physician Cosmetic Dermatology
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