The world of cosmetics is not only limited to skin. Let’s not forget hair. It is in itself a science. How can you take the best care of your hair? I have discussed shampoos frequently in the past. But what about conditioners? Are they really necessary?

The need for conditioners
The need for conditioners, sometimes also known as crème rinse or hair softener, has actually come about through the use of shampoo. The very first shampoos to come on the market cleaned the hair very thoroughly but left it unmanageable and less appealing. So began a search for ingredients to make the hair smooth again. And hence the first conditioners were born. Since then there is a maze of products on the market. What do they all do for you? Do they deliver what they promise?

How does a conditioner work?
How do conditioners work? In the book Hair Care: An Illustrated Dermatologic Handbook, by the well-known American Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Diane Draelos, I found a couple of examples which show clearly what these products do to the hair.

As you can see on the images the outermost layer is made up of lots of scales. They lie flat over each other like roof tiles. Washing, drying, colouring and also the effects of the sun damages the hair. The scales wear down and the hair becomes dry and fragile. Conditioners make the outer skin of the hair (cuticula) smooth again. Alongside this, certain ingredients like panthenol also penetrate the hair, strengthening it from the inside out.

Are silicones beneficial in conditioners?
One of the best ingredients for smoothing hair are silicones. These substances form a very fine protective layer around the hair shaft. Silicone does not suffocate the hairs. After all, they are not alive. The hair becomes less static with silicone, easier to comb and your hair will have more of a shine. Silicone is known on the ingredients list as dimethicone, cyclomethicone and amodimethicone (in fact everything that ends in –methicone). You probably won’t see silicone in very cheap conditioners as it is a very expensive ingredient.

The effects of proteins
Hair products often use proteins; both shampoos and conditioners. What exactly do these substances do? Proteins are building materials which can penetrate the hair shaft and strengthen the hair. In this way split ends, for example, can also be temporarily repaired. Ideally you will see hydrolysed proteins in the ingredients list; otherwise they will not go deep enough into the hair shaft and will just be rinsed off again. It is also important to allow more time for conditioners containing these substances. The longer you leave the conditioner on, the better the proteins can penetrate the hair shaft.

Polymers for coarse hair
So what do polymers do then? These connectors fill, as it were, the gaps and damage in the hair shaft. This also makes the hair less static, more glossy and easy to comb. Polymers are best suited to coarse, frizzy hair. People with fine hair won’t enjoy having polymers in their conditioner: it makes the hair softer and therefore more difficult to style. You will mainly find polymers in leave-in conditioners.

Do not rinse off plant derived oils
Plant derived oils are also widely used. These ingredients work very well in leave-in conditioners, but have no use in rinse off products. The problem with plant derived oils is, when combined in a formula with water and emulsifying agents, they wash straight down the plughole as soon as you rinse off your hair.

Are more expensive products better?
Hair itself is dead. It is the hair follicles in your scalp that are living and require good nourishment such as vitamins. It is, therefore, a bit of a waste to buy expensive conditioners which are packed with all sorts of vitamin complexes. The vitamins will not improve the effectiveness of the conditioner. Panthenol (vitamin B3) is the only one in your conditioner that can do something. This ingredient can actually penetrate the hair shaft.
On the other hand, don’t expect too much from very cheap conditioners either. These contain mainly water and maybe one or two conditioning ingredients, but no precious silicones.

Pure coconut oil
Can an oil mask do anything for your hair? Yes it definitely can. Make sure you use pure coconut oil. A minor study into the use of plant extract oils showed that coconut oil could restore lost proteins in undamaged as well as damaged hair. The oil had to be applied both before and after washing. Mineral oils and sunflower oil didn’t have the same effect. You can use coconut oil as a hair mask. Leave it to absorb in overnight and rinse it out in the morning. You can also use pure coconut oil as a leave-in conditioner. Apply some to the very ends of your hair after washing. Pure coconut oil is less suitable for acne-sensitive skin.

PRODUCT ADVICE

Rahua Conditioner
Aqua, Herbal Infusion of Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract*, Camellia Sinensis (Green tea) Leaf Extract*, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract*, and Robus Ideous (Raspberry) Leaf Extract*, Behentrimonium Methosulfate (Colza Oil), Oenocarpus Bataua (Rahua Ungurahua) Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Canola Oil, Glycerin, Stearalkonium Chloride (plant derived), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Saccharum Officinarum (Molasses) Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Bursera Graveolens (Palo Santo) Oil, Potassium Sorbate (plant derived), Hydrolyzed Quinoa, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Panthenol

PHB Scent Free Conditioner
Aqua & Avena Sativa (Organic Oat) kernel extract, Cetyl alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Argania spinosa (Organic Argan), Glyceryl stearate S/E, Propandiol & Salix alba, Cocos nucifera (Organic Coconut), Benzyl alcohol, Citric acid

Neutral Conditioner (less suitable for very damaged and dry hair…)
Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride, Hexylene Glycol, Citric acid, Sodium benzoate

Grahams Conditioner
Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Chamomilla Recutita Oil, Citric Acid, Mel, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Panthenol, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol

Regards,

Jetske

(Research Physician Cosmetic Dermatology)