• Help with Choosing Your Moisturizer

Help with Choosing Your Moisturizer

Did I feel guilty this morning when I woke up! For the first time in 18 months I haven’t managed to write a new piece in my blog within a week…. And although I would like to say that it is because of all the presentations that needed to be made, books that need to be completed and e-mails that could no longer wait, there is no valid excuse. Although, a ‘numerous’ course dinner for more than enough adults (and even more children) and a mountain of guests are actually enough reasons for staying in bed for at least a week….To make up for it today a blog about Moisturizer. As I so often get asked: “which product is best for me?” Most people that read my blog now know that irritating substances aren’t good and that attractive marketing doesn’t really say very much. But what is good then? Below you’ll find a list.

Always searching

There are already thousands of cosmetic products available and each day there are new ones being introduced. It goes without saying that I haven’t looked at all the brands and products…If you have found a suitable Moisturizer I would like to hear! The list below is a “dynamic list” that I will adjust if I come across other good or better products. Any help is most welcome… (but lovely cosmetic manufacturers, please don’t use my blog to advertise!)

Requirements for a good cream (Moisturizer)

Previously I wrote about what a moisturiser actually does (blog ‘Moisturizer 1’) and how to use it (blog ‘Moisturizer 2’). As for all skincare products it is important:

  • that there are no irritating ingredients (see the list here).
  • that it contains active ingredients. eg. Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Vitamin E and liquorice root extract. Though there are many more. You can find a fairly reliable list on the site from ‘bulkactives‘ of ingredients per ‘skin problem’.

And here are some products which meet the requirements:

Product advice

These Moisturizers are most suitable for drier skin types:        

Dr. Jetske Ultee Moisturizer (normal to dry skin)
(Normal to dry skin)

A mild nourishing cream with effective concentrations of active substances, such as Vitamin C (5%), Niacinamide, Vitamin E (1%), Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan and Ergothioneine. Its combination with the hydrating ingredients makes this cream beneficial for normal to dry skin. The product provides protection and leaves the skin soft. Also suitable for sensitive skin.

Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Niacinamide, Sodium PCA, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan, Ergothioneine, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-75 Stearate, p-Anisic Acid, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Squalane, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 60.

(Laatst geüpdatet april 2017)

Repair cream by Dr. Jetske Ultee

This rich Repair Cream helps the weakened barrier layer to recover quickly. The full cream contains a unique combination of substances which are naturally occurring in the lipid layer of the skin barrier, such as ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Thanks to the correct composition, the substances can also be effectively absorbed. Extra added ingredients, such as oat extract, panthenol and squalane, help further recovery and offer protection and relief from irritation, itching and inflammatory responses.

Aqua, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Ceramide NS, Phytosphingosine, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ceramide NP, Lecithin, Squalane, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium AcryloyldimethylTaurate Copolymer, Tocopherol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium AcryloyldimethylTaurate Copolymer, p-Anisic Acid, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 60, Ceramide EOP, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Carbomer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum

(Last updated April 2017)

AntiREDNESS Calming Cream by Eucerin

This is a worthwhile cream for people with a very sensitive skin type with a lot of redness, which can tolerate very little. The combination of liquorice root extract and 4-t-buttylcyclohexanol in the product has been tested and compared with a control cream. According to the study, the symptoms of the sensitive skin, such as redness and burning, diminish through use of the product. The cream also contains few ingredients reducing the risk of a hypersensitive reaction. If you have very oily skin then this product is probably a little too rich. You are better off going for the Ultra SENSITIVE soothing cream (for the normal to combination skin) by Eucerin.

Water,   Glycerine,  Panthenol,   Butyrospermum Parkii Butter,   Cetyl Palmitate,   Methyl Palmitate   Olus Oil,   Pentylene Glycol,   Methylpropanediol,   Sodium Polyacrylate,   4-t-Butylcyclohexanol (Trans-Isomer),   Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract,   Caprylyl Glycol 

(Last updated April 2017)

Hydrating Cream by Cetaphil

A solid base cream, especially suited to dry skin. The addition of almond oil makes this tube a lot less suitable for skin which is prone to spots.

Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Peg30 Stearate, Benzyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium Edta, Methylparaben, Propylene Glycol, Propylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate

(Last updated April 2017)

Total effects 7 in 1 Anti-Ageing No Perfume by Oil of Olaz

This is a super cream in a good container. The pump means that little air can get into the bottle so that the product will last longer. The best ingredients in this cream are Niacinamide, Panthenol, green tea extract and Vitamin E. The cream does contain zinc oxide in nanoparticles. Given its position in the ingredients list then less than 1% is used. This concentration is found to be safe in cosmetic products.

Aqua, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Isostearate, Panthenol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethiconol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, BHT, Zinc Oxide (nano), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, C13-14 Alkane, Laureth-7, Cetearyl Glucoside, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Benzyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, Probylparaben, Ethylparaben, Caramel

(Last updated April 2017)

Toleriane Riche by La Roche-Posay

A reliable, base cream with hydrating and soothing ingredients, but nothing extra special. This cream is great for dry skin. If your skin needs to recover, such as after a cosmetic irritation (periorale dermatitis), it is a super product. (Actually the advice is to not put anything on, but sometimes the skin can be so dry that you really need to apply something).

Aqua/Water , Isocetyl Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii/Shea Butter, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

(Last updated April 2017)

Ultra Red-Action Moisturiser by Ultraceuticals

Beautiful cream with Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Urea and Hyaluronic Acid reasonably high on the ingredients list. But also barrier repairing substances such as shea butter and glycerine; very nice for dry skin.

Aqua, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea)Butter, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Glyceryl Behenate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol,Glyceryl Stearate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Ceramide 3, Sodium Hyaluronate, Urea, Sodium PCA, Linoleic Acid, Tocopherol, Linolenic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-75 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol,Ceteth-20, Disodium EDTA, Steareth-20,Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate,Phenylpropanol.

(Last updated April 2017)

 Regeneration Firming Day Cream by Dado Sens

A super base cream with hydrating and soothing ingredients. The addition of ectoine is interesting, especially for people with eczema. Basically this cream is super for dry skin or skin with eczema.

Aqua [Water], Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Squalane, Glycerin, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Tribehenin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Zinc Oxide, Magnesium Sulfate, Ectoin, Cera Alba [Beeswax], Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Allantoin, Brassica Campestris Sterols [Rapeseed], Rhizobian Gum, Lactic Acid, Glycine Soja Oil [Soybean], Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Bisabolol, Smithsonite Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Biotin, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

(Last updated April 2017)


These Moisturisers are best suited to oilier skin types:

Moisturizer (normal to oily skin) by Dr. Jetske Ultee

This product contains among other things, Vitamin C (5%), Niacinamide, liquorice root extract, Vitamin E (1%), Hyaluronic Acid, evodia rutaecarpa extract and Ergothioneine. This makes the cream ideal for combination and oily skin types, which may also be prone to impurities. Also suitable for sensitive skin.

Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Niacinamide, Sodium PCA, Glycerin, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Ergothioneine, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-75 Stearate, p-Anisic Acid, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Lactic Acid.

(Last updated April 2017)

Ultra SENSITIVE Calming Cream (normal to mixed skin) by Eucerin

This is an interesting cream for people with more oily and very sensitive skin, with much redness, which can tolerate little.

INCI: Aqua, Squalane, Glycerine, Pentylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Tapioca Starch, Arginine HCL, Cetearyl Alcohol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol (Trans-Isomer), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol

(Last updated April 2017)

Pigmacare® Skin Tone by Louis Widmer

Contains 5% Niacinamide and 1% Vitamin E. The concentrations of Vitamin C, Resveratrol and Hexyresorcinol are, in my opinion, negligible. In the tests carried out into the effectiveness of these ingredients, concentrations of 1% or higher are always used. This cream contains a relatively reasonable amount of silica which will help mattify the more oily skin.

Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Glycerin, Silica, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Arginine, Cetearyl Olivate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethyl Linoleate, Hexylresorcinol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Resveratrol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Carbomer/Papain Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrapeptide-30, Algin

(Last updated April 2017)

Ultra Hydrating Lotion by Ultraceuticals

A light cream (they even call it a lotion) with, among other things, a high concentration of ureum (exfoliating effect). Ideal for a matt finish but with enough barrier repairing substances which an oily unsettled skin often needs.

Aqua/Water, Urea, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Decyl Oleate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide 3, Cholesterol, Oleic Acid, Squalene, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Aluminium Silicate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-12, Cetyl Palmitate, Decyl Oleate, Decyl Octadecadienoate, Decyl Octadecatrienoate, Decyl Octadecanoate, Decyl Hexadecanoate, Decyl Hexadecenoate, Decyl Eicosanoate, Decyl Eicosenoate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Phenylpropanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid.

(Last updated april 2017)


If you know of any other good products, just let me know via the blog or by e-mail ([email protected])

Regards Jetske.

(Dr. Jetske Ultee-Research Physician Cosmetic Dermatology)

Other interesting blogs: ‘Dehydrated Skin (and Hydrating Substances)’
Special Skincare for Men?
‘Is an Expensive Moisturizer Better?’
‘Understanding the Ingredients List’ 
‘Do Anti-Oxidants Also Work in a Cream?’ and
The difference between a day and a night cream.

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