Wow, I am so thrilled. A couple of weeks ago, when I was in the studio at a film shoot for my latest product, with Holland’s Next Top Model winner Akke Marije. Now, at last I can tell you more about it. This week, after extensive searching, and after much reading and testing, I am launching my Vitamin A Serum. I would love to know what you think of it!

The most frequently asked questions

What does actually get rid of wrinkles? Can creams rejuvenate the skin? You wouldn’t believe how often I am asked those questions. That fact is, we would all secretly love to stay young. But are all those appealing jars to be believed? My response is invariably: the only real anti-wrinkle cream is a sun cream. This is because around ninety percent of skin ageing is caused by the sun’s rays. By applying an SPF daily, including in the winter, you can avoid new wrinkles and pigmentation spots.

But is there anything that can get rid of established wrinkles? There are definitely ingredients available, such as vitamin C, glycolic acid or niacinamide, which can help ageing skin with fine lines. But the very best example is vitamin A acid. This ingredient has been researched extensively and actually has a proven effect against the signs of ageing. That is nothing new though. Vitamin A acid, also known as tretinoin, has been registered since the 1980’s as an effective medicine for acne. It was inadvertently discovered that the ingredient was also effective against skin ageing.

Prescription only, for acne only

You may wonder why we aren’t all using this cream. Very simply: tretinoin is a medicine. It is used in the treatment of acne and it is not usual for the cream to be prescribed for signs of ageing. Perhaps that is a good thing, as tretinoin is hardly skin friendly. The medicine is often poorly tolerated, especially by sensitive skin. If you are unfortunate, you may get a badly formulated cream from the chemist; for example, in a solution of alcohol denat.

Retinol and other variations in cosmetics

Incidentally, there are now over-the-counter alternatives to vitamin A acid; these are retinols or variations thereof. You will have come across this name at some time or another on a jar of cream or other packaging. Retinol also has a proven effect in improving the structure of the skin. It is, however, very instable when exposed to light and air. This ingredient can also irritate the skin. For that reason the concentration in creams is always pretty low. The lower concentration will automatically reduce the effectiveness.

Instantly sold

My new serum contains a unique form of vitamin A, called Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. It is a distinctive, stable form of vitamin A which, unlike retinol, doesn’t require conversion in the skin. I became familiar with this chemical when I was attending a congress in Barcelona, and was immediately enthusiastic. For the last two years we have been incredibly busy with the right composition, packaging and, not forgetting, research into the effects of the serum. Naturally, I have chosen to use the highest concentration possible in my product, without it irritating the skin. And this product would not fulfil its purpose if it didn’t also contain soothing and healing ingredients. The serum is, in this way, a mild alternative to vitamin A acid cream.

No cream, no oil

I have been contemplating long and hard about the name. It is neither a cream nor an oil. I have deliberately produced a light product so that it will be suitable for all skin types, absorb easily into the skin and be used in combination with a moisturiser. I eventually arrived at ‘Serum’ because the consistency is the closest to a serum. The observant reader will now rightly point out: Hey wait a minute, wasn’t a serum actually a waste of money (read my blog from 2011 about serums here)? What I explained at that time was: you can come up with a fancy name, but it is all about the ingredients and the right amount of active chemicals. The name serum does tell you something about the ‘composition’ but nothing about the contents. My Vitamin A Serum is not a replacement for a cream, instead the products actually reinforce each other.

Start young, stay young

My new Vitamin A Serum is specially developed for the older, thinner skin. Model Akke Marije, of course, doesn’t suffer yet from these signs of ageing. Having said that, vitamin A is also a preventive measure. It ensures that the structure of the skin remains smooth and firm by, among other things, inhibiting collagen breakdown. And that deteriorating process sadly begins between the ages of 25 and 30. Alongside this, we know that vitamin A helps with blocked pores, rough skin texture and spots. The product is therefore very suitable for younger, distressed skin. If you apply the Serum for a longer period of time you will notice that your skin becomes smoother and more even. The only regret I have is that I didn’t develop this product years ago!  

Kind regards,

Jetske

Research Physician Cosmetic Dermatology

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